Carburetor rebuilds/cleaning

TK

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Jan 9, 2012
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Alrighty children, class is once again in session.

Because of who I am (y'all seeing the trend here yet??) I FORGOT to take pictures from the start. This thread could have been about a mag case teardown, but I got this far before I realized "OH CRAP"



So today's lesson involves carburetor work. On the bench is a Zama C1Q-EL7



How do I know it's a C1Q bodied carburetor? By looking here.



That area is often hidden behind the screw/bolt that holds the carb in place. You have to remove it, or be good with a light and hope nothing else is in the way to see it. Or be really good and know by looking at the carb. Good luck with that one.

How do I know it's an EL7 variant of the C1Q carb? By looking here.



You need to know this information in order to obtain the correct carburetor kit. Simply telling the dealer it's a 55 Rancher doesn't cut it. Many different carbs were used on the same model. If you happen to know the year of the saw, exact model, and carb brand (some years they used both Walbro and Zama :derplol: ) that is very helpful, but the best is to have the information off the carburetor itself to ensure the exact kit you need.
 
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TK

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So now that we know what carb we're dealing with, let's make sure we have the kit we need ready to go. This information is also available on the Zama website, I find it quicker to plop to the right page in my handy dandy book. Old Skool baby!



Under the B, number 9, BINGO!



And I'd be foolish to start a thread without having the kit in stock, so here it is. Going with the RB Rebuild kit, I'm guessing with the age of the saw/carb it's going to need a new metering lever. Tend to see a bit of wear on the tips, and I'd like a new spring and fuel screen. Otherwise the GND Gasket and Diaphragm kit does the job quite nicely.

 

TK

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And moving on, here we have a few simple tools needed to service most carbs.



A couple tools not pictured will be used later in the job and will be pictured then. There are also a couple of other tools not pictured at all as most of you won't have them, but I'll explain what you can use instead.

So pop off one of the carb covers and remove the contents. Take note of what order they come off, it is important that you don't forget because this won't work if you put the new stuff in backwards.





Now that you've got it apart, take a peek at the metering lever. Little bit of wear on the tip, glad we got the complete kit for this one.



The next part requires removal of the (H)igh and (L)ow speed jet needles. This particular type is most often destroyed when they are removed, requiring new ones to replace them. On occasion they are salvageable, depending on how badly they're stuck in there. The dealer tool is a T-Handle with a coarse thread on the end. You may use a simple wood/sheetmetal screw and a pair of pliers. Carefully thread the screw into the end of the plastic limiter, pull hard with the pliers. It should pop off. A lot of times the plastic gets mangled in this procedure.

For a customer, I wouldn't do this next part. But for me, this is what I do. Bust out the ever handy Dremel and zip the tabs off the limiters.



Use the sweet adjuster screwdriver (I only use this screwdriver on carb jets. It's very special to me.) to remove the jets and the accompanying hardware.



Pay attention to the order that everything is in. And notice the thread difference on the H/L needles. They only fit in one place. Force them in the wrong place, strip the threads...... Ugh.

 

TK

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Okie dokie now, remove the metering setup.



Lastly I remove the fuel inlet screen with a dental pick. A small screwdriver, screw, etc. will also do the trick.



Heated ultrasonic bath. Catz azz for carb cleaning. Don't have one? Don't worry. Spraying a little bit of carb cleaner through all the passages works awesome also. I recommend going very lightly with the compressed air around these things. Some of them don't react well. When I use compressed air, I regulate the pressure down a bit lower and hold the blow nozzle away from the carb.

 

TK

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Jan 9, 2012
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Alright, let's lay out the contents of our kit. Some kits contain extra sets of diaphragms/gaskets that may cover a larger variety of carbs, not the case with this one. Everything we need is here in the kit. The only thing I'm not going to use is the welch plug (triangular shaped in this particular case). I find it seldom necessary to go through the effort to replace this piece, but in some cases it will be necessary.



Reversal of disassembly time. First I install the fuel inlet screen. I have a nifty tool from the carb tool kit designed specifically to do this task. It holds it nice and even and makes a simple task of it. Screwdrivers can push them in crooked, sideways, twisted, etc. - it can be done, it just requires a little extra care. One tool that works slick is a small 1/4" drive socket or the eraser end of a pencil.



Install the metering lever assembly. This can be a bit of a juggle in the fingers as the parts are rather tiny. Be patient, and be careful not to mangle the new spring. It must sit flat in the body of the carb, and flat against the lever.



Once installed, we need to check the height of the lever for proper operation. The height in this particular case needs to be 0.012" (12 thousandths) lower than a straightedge across the body of the carb. I use the Walbro tool and pretty much know the height needed. The Zama "Z-Tool" will have a 12 thou drop in it so just making contact is where it needs to be. In this case, I need to pry up a little on the end of the lever.



Proper order of installation for the metering side.



Proper order of installation for the pump side.



Reinstall the jet needles, don't lose any washers or springs! For a base setting I seat each needle then turn them out 1.5 turns. Fire it up and adjust as needed from there.
VOILA! You have just serviced the carburetor.

 
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young

Sup dawg. Mah yooza tytle iz cussum, son.
Jan 10, 2012
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TK why dont you list the walbro and zama tools kits and gauge part numbers for people that want them.
 

TK

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ZT-1 = Zama "Z" Gauge metering lever
CDMAN = Zama service manual on CD
SVCMAN = Zama parts & service manual
ZPG-2 = Zama pressure gauge 15psi
ZTK-101 = Zama 7 PC. tool kit - No longer available (but at the moment [2/10/2012] my distributor still has 4 left in stock....)

57-11-1 = Walbro Pressure gauge
500-500 = Walbro tool kit
500-13-1 = Walbro "W" metering lever gauge
 
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young

Sup dawg. Mah yooza tytle iz cussum, son.
Jan 10, 2012
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ZT-1 = Zama "Z" Gauge metering lever
CDMAN = Zama service manual on CD
SVCMAN = Zama parts & service manual
ZPG-2 = Zama pressure gauge 15psi
ZTK-101 = Zama 7 PC. tool kit - No longer available (but at the moment [2/10/2012] my distributor still has 4 left in stock....)

57-11-1 = Walbro Pressure gauge
500-500 = Walbro tool kit
500-13-1 = Walbro "W" metering lever gauge
cost?

which ones do you use most?
 

TK

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cost?

which ones do you use most?
I can't really go posting prices on here but if anyone is interested in something feel free to send me a PM and I'll do my best. I'd much rather see your local dealers hook you up if they're willing, as anything I can do for you here would surely be negated in shipping costs.

I use the Walbro tool kit frequently and even on Zama carbs. I don't even think I own the Zama kit....?? :lol: I use most everything in the Walbro kit, but some tools more than others. Use the metering gauge all the time, welch plug punch (Usually on Tecumseh carbs :D ) and various seating tools. But strictly on chainsaw carbs it's the meter gauge, punch (for the fuel screen, works well), that's about it. Honestly a good quality slotted screwdriver and a #1 and #2 phillips will do the brunt of the work. A good razor for scraping stuck gaskets is nice. Outside of that, the ultrasonic cleaner is awesome. I get my Walbro information on their website - they have an online lookup for all of their carbs including kits, individual parts, etc. Zama does also, but I like the book better. Never had the CD.
 
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Kevin

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Feb 7, 2012
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Wow!! You did a very nice job with this thread. I just bought (a month or so ago) the same ultrsonic cleaner you have. I love it! I have had two or three carbs that I just couldn't clean in the past. One was off an old 026 and I swapped it with a known good one I had (after making futile attempts of rebuilding it:angry:) for a customer. I kept that carb and gave it the ultrasonic treatment a couple of weeks ago. It is going to be tried out the first chance I get :yup: ...I'll have to report back some time in the future about that....

I have screwed up a couple of those screens in the carbs once or twice hastily rebuilding a carb... I've been using the back of a dril bit, that works real good if you don't have that special tool.

Kevin
 
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TK

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Tilly is pretty good with support for their carbs. I may do another thread or an add-on for a HS series carb for larger saws, involving the metering lever hook setup. Gotta make sure she's hooked in there proper when you reassemble or it just ain't gonna run right lol, and those seem very particularly picky about metering lever height. Not as forgiving as the Wally's and zamas in that regard.
 

motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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Where did the Ultrasonc cleaner you guys use come from? I need to think about the purchase of one soon, as I've changed jobs and the shop I am now at doesn't have one. The one we had was an OmegaSonic and was sized so I could put Inline 4 cyl carb sets in with room to spare, but cost $2200.
Awesome write-up on carbs! Thanks
 

TK

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Jan 9, 2012
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Where did the Ultrasonc cleaner you guys use come from? I need to think about the purchase of one soon, as I've changed jobs and the shop I am now at doesn't have one. The one we had was an OmegaSonic and was sized so I could put Inline 4 cyl carb sets in with room to spare, but cost $2200.
Awesome write-up on carbs! Thanks
It came from my distributor in Massachussetts. You have to be a dealer to order from them with an account..... But it sounds like you're currently in a shop so that shouldn't be a problem. It's a good unit, only runs a couple hundred bucks too! Would like it to be a tad larger but I've made do with what I've got so far.
 

motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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Thanks TK. Couple hundred I can afford, since I would be buying it, haven't convinced the owners where I am now to get one
 

TK

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If they won't get you one I'd be more than happy to hook you up. Just gotta add shipping on top of that. It's made by DTI, same company that puts out the FastTach wireless tachometer amongst other stuff. PM me if you need to. Gardner-Connell is the distributor I got mine through. Took a while but it's worth it.
 

Denis Gionet

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Apr 17, 2012
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Hey Tom, we've got that exact same U-S cleaner at work ! I'd use it more if I knew what cleaner is best for carbs & jets. The particular cleaning job I've got for it would be carb parts that are badly stained from stale gas, mainly from quads and sleds. The main jets & float levers get badly stained and gummed up. I'm looking for a solvent that will clean brass & plastic parts (floats, for example) that won't destroy them. I've used Honda or Red Stallion Carburetor cleaner in the past, but it seems to have disappeared from the local market.

What do you use in your cleaner, and how well does it clean/shine up brass pieces ?
 

TK

Hand Rubbed Pork
Jan 9, 2012
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I use a local product called Incredible Pink. It's comparable to Simple Green on a national level. Shine? Won't say it makes stuff shiny but it does clean very well. Run it 50/50 with water.