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Drilling bar tip ?

Denis Gionet

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Can the tip of a sprocket nose bar be drilled, at the center of the 4 rivets on the tip of the bar ? OEM Husky on a 435. I'm thinking of a cheezy easy portable clamp-on - bolt-on bar guide for small boards without using a bigger saw and an Alaskan mill.
 

TK

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Can the tip of a sprocket nose bar be drilled, at the center of the 4 rivets on the tip of the bar ? OEM Husky on a 435. I'm thinking of a cheezy easy portable clamp-on - bolt-on bar guide for small boards without using a bigger saw and an Alaskan mill.

Gonna need a pic to know what you're talking about. Are you talking about the actual center of the sprocket tip? If so then no.
 

SawTroll

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I just don't understand why anyone would want to put something like that on as chainsaw, but take a look on the Oregon "Guard-Mate" bars.
 

Denis Gionet

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I just don't understand why anyone would want to put something like that on as chainsaw, but take a look on the Oregon "Guard-Mate" bars.

? You don't understand what part ? I can use an Alaskan II but it's kind of overkill on a 16" 435 Husky, if all I want is to cut the slabs off of a couple of small trees and make a few little planks.

I know that's not the right tool for the job, but until I can get a 288XP or equivalent, I'm stuck with it. Just trying to make do.
 

SawTroll

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? You don't understand what part ? I can use an Alaskan II but it's kind of overkill on a 16" 435 Husky, if all I want is to cut the slabs off of a couple of small trees and make a few little planks.

I know that's not the right tool for the job, but until I can get a 288XP or equivalent, I'm stuck with it. Just trying to make do.

I was referring to the tip guard, and the need for a hole in the bar tip.
 

Denis Gionet

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I was referring to the tip guard, and the need for a hole in the bar tip.

Rather than clamping the bar tip like the Alaskan, I was looking to make something slimmer, that doesn't hang up as much. I would have made the tip-end fixed with a bolt and nut, going thru the bar tip for a more solid assembly, and clamp to the rear of the bar. I suppose I could drill and bolt at that end as well, if I needed to. Just considering what assembly options I might have.
 

TK

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Rather than clamping the bar tip like the Alaskan, I was looking to make something slimmer, that doesn't hang up as much. I would have made the tip-end fixed with a bolt and nut, going thru the bar tip for a more solid assembly, and clamp to the rear of the bar. I suppose I could drill and bolt at that end as well, if I needed to. Just considering what assembly options I might have.

I apologize and was mistaken - I believe you can actually drill that part of the bar. Just don't hit the rivets ;) How large of a hole are you shooting for?
 

Denis Gionet

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How large of a hole are you shooting for?

About 3/8" to fit a 3/8" bolt, which would just about take up the space between the rivets, and keep the bar functional without the rig attached. I didn't measure it, but it looks to be about that size.
 

TK

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I'm pretty sure that's doable. Only one way to find out.... The core of the nose should be solid, it's outside the rivets where the bearings are. Worst case scenario is you need a new bar, but those bars are pretty inexpensive all things considered.
 

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