Meguiars. This stuff.
It's around twenty five bucks on sale somewheres. It's an hour project in reality, between gathering the stuff needed and a beer or three, then getting everything put away. Works better on the glass or harder plastics, the thin (GM) not so much. Haze varies after you're done.
But it may take awhile to r & r the assemblies as well.
Get her a new ride, and not a different moostache style kind of ride.
I just use rubbing compound, after I'm done its good and clear. I do it every year or two, if you never want to do it again hit it with wax and greese remover and get a can of 2k clear coat. But I don't think its worth the trouble myself.
I bought and used a Krylon kit for my Dodge. Spray on clear. It doesn't last. I don't think I've ever seen anything come out of a spray can with the hardness of headlight plastic.
I sanded the headlights on my Jeep and then heated it with a propane torch to make it clear. It actually worked pretty good. It was really touchy getting it hot but not too hot. I wasn't sure how it would turn out and only did it after ordering new replacements. I would've run them. There were a few spots that I got too hot. I would've sanded them out and re-heated. I have an electric heat gun that I think would be more forgiving.
Just used the meguires kit on on the wife and daughters pontiac vibes..worked very well, guess we'll sew how long it last.
I had used rubbing compound in the past, it works but doesn't last (either), hoping the UV sealer in the meguires kit last for a while.
3M makes a kit that comes wif a 3"velcro arbor wheel for a drill/die grinder ,,,has sand papers 400 down to 900-1200?grit and some polishing and sealing compounds ,,instructions say its enuf for 2 headlamps but I've already done 4prs ,I'm cheap and usually only treat the area in the center of the focused beam [function over looks] don't really care if the marker/sig area is "clear". Wife took a scotchbrite pad to the lenses on her Matrix to clean off bugs,,that was a real challenge to repair