Mitch, your videos are great. I don't know a thing about ignition timing - but it's awesome having a much clearer idea as opposed to being just oblivious. Working on saws honestly isn't my cup of tea. I've spent and earned a living on fixing broken ✖✖✖✖, getting sick of working on stuff, lol. The last thing I wanna do is work on a saw when they break down. Therefore I'm not uber knowledged in things like timing, and case splitting, ect. But it's awesome to see someone do it and explain it - kudos buddy.
Thanks mang. Keep the vids up d00d, love'em. :yup:
I use a timing light with an adjustable degree knob on it, simplify's the degree measuring process a little bit when ya don't have to count the numbers up.
I make my marks on the side of the cylinder so I don't have to pull the recoil while It's running. Some saws there just isn't enough room to do it that way though.
Other than throttle response, I've not really noticed any difference in a timing advance on the few Huskys I've played with. My experience is kinda limited, I've just played with it on a couple of my own saws.
Good lookin saw! Ready to see ya work your magic and get it in some big wood!
Great video Mitch..
I do basicly the same thing , I use a self contained battery light plus I'll mark in *'s so I dont have to go back to my degree wheel.
simply find the dia of the flywheel (use a cloth tape or measure across and multiply by PI (3.1416).. 10% of the circumference is 36*, half of that is 18* and so on rite on down to what ever ya need.
I really expected more final timming in the newer stihls No wonder they will take so much advance without detonation
Eric, I to was surprised at the lack of aggressive timing advance. Was expecting 20-22 really. That's a dang good way for referencing timing. Never gave it any thought as I'm always throwing a wheel on it anyway. Thanks for the tip.