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How would ya go about dropping this Red Oak?

komatsuvarna

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Finished up a Beech this morning,and this one is next on the list. Been dead for about 2 years, just ain't figured out exactly how I wan't to go about cutting it. Its a bad leaner, and Im about positive it'll bust when I stick a saw in the back of it. I've thought about just bringing the excavator home and pushing it down, but it wetter than crap, and I don't wanna make a bigger mess to clean up. Id like to get it down in the next couple weeks so I can have it busted and stacked for next winter :). Its about 28-30'' on the stump. Whatcha think?



 

mdavlee

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Put a 1/3 deep face cut and bore cut behind the hinge. Then leave a little strap to clip from as far away as you can. I don't think I would just try to put a back cut in it. Is it hollow or sound down low?
 

komatsuvarna

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Put a 1/3 deep face cut and bore cut behind the hinge. Then leave a little strap to clip from as far away as you can. I don't think I would just try to put a back cut in it. Is it hollow or sound down low?

Its not hollow that I can see visually, all the bark is still intact. Id say its probably a little doady as long as its been dead, It might not be, but Id be surprised if its not.

Yeah, I ain't starting a back cut in it!:thumbsup:
 

mdavlee

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I would think about boring in somewhere right above where you would put the face and back cuts in just to see if it's solid.
 

Art Vandelay

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Put a 1/3 deep face cut and bore cut behind the hinge. Then leave a little strap to clip from as far away as you can. I don't think I would just try to put a back cut in it. Is it hollow or sound down low?

Good advice, I'd do the same. :thumbsup:
 

Gink

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I'd probably bore cut that as well and leave enough strap that the weight of the tree doesn't snap it before you are ready for it. I had that happen with a cherry tree that was leaning.
 

WoodChuck'r

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I'd probably bore cut that as well and leave enough strap that the weight of the tree doesn't snap it before you are ready for it. I had that happen with a cherry tree that was leaning.


10-4 on that.

Bore it a touch wide too. It'll help keep if from barber chairing on ya. Those leaners can be tricky at times....
 

mdavlee

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If it's solid it won't be as exciting as one that's just a rind on the outside. Those are the ones that are a little scary to drop.
 

NORMZILLA44

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Not to make light of it Durand, but yeah no biggie on that one. I agree face it, bore in then fall it. I have done that with some with less inetegrity. you will be good my friend.
 

komatsuvarna

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Probably a dumb question,,,, But after the hinge is set, would a man be better to cut straight out the back? Or bore back so far and then cut the strap from a backcut?

Ill be honest and say Ive never cut a tree down with a bore cut, but I have made lots of bore cuts when bucking. Im 100% confident I can do it though, just want some input so I don't make any hasty decisions!:)
 

mdavlee

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You can do either. On something like that I would probably pull out and then trip the back strap. I would think the 395 with a 28" bar would be fast enough to get out the back if you wanted to keep going. Make sure you don't cut through the hinge when boring in. It might go over sideways before you're ready.
 

WoodChuck'r

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Probably a dumb question,,,, But after the hinge is set, would a man be better to cut straight out the back? Or bore back so far and then cut the strap from a backcut?

Ill be honest and say Ive never cut a tree down with a bore cut, but I have made lots of bore cuts when bucking. Im 100% confident I can do it though, just want some input so I don't make any hasty decisions!



I'd say go with your second choice and "bore back so far and then cut the strap from a backcut".


Might be the safer of the two - but honestly it kinda sounds like six in one, half a dozen in the other.


I think it'll go down just fine - paying attention and being cautious is the most important when falling a tree. Sounds like you're already there my friend. Knowing that the situation can be an unforgiving one definitely keeps ya in check and makes you respect the situation as opposed to rushing in to "Get It Done." Just jumping in and being careless/reckless can always lead to irreversible consequences....
 

komatsuvarna

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You can do either. On something like that I would probably pull out and then trip the back strap. I would think the 395 with a 28" bar would be fast enough to get out the back if you wanted to keep going. Make sure you don't cut through the hinge when boring in. It might go over sideways before you're ready.



I got a 28'', but I doubt it'll reach all the way through honestly. The last thing I want to be doing is running around the back of a hard leaner trying to cut from both sides.



I'd say go with your second choice and "bore back so far and then cut the strap from a backcut".


Might be the safer of the two - but honestly it kinda sounds like six in one, half a dozen in the other.


I think it'll go down just fine - paying attention and being cautious is the most important when falling a tree. Sounds like you're already there my friend. Knowing that the situation can be an unforgiving one definitely keeps ya in check and makes you respect the situation as opposed to rushing in to "Get It Done."

Yeah, That the reason it ain't been cut yet lol. Ill think about it some more, and get to it in a day or 2.:)
 

NORMZILLA44

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You will be good dude, like bucking cut an off side slightly, then wide open through the rest. You wont have to jump around and make two cut's. Swamp the area out well first, that's what I always do. Even if it takes an hour to clear the area of underbrush sapplings whatever. Take the time at least on that way you have plenty of escapes, and room to run. I always cut from the back, especially on that not being abledto wedge, cutting from the bore cut all the way to the back you chance getting your saw hung up, and falling with the tree. At least if you leave enogough to hold on the back, and the tree is not sound and starts to go your saw wont be stuck and you can just let it go, and get out of the way.
 

Wigglesworth

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If it were me, I'd make a face cut, bore a square notch in the back, then pack it full of that junk y'all be blowing stuff up with, turn the camera on, light the fuse and high tail it . :thumbsup:

Don't forget to post the vid. :rock:
 

Dave k

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I would, from your description, be happy enough with a bore cut and when ready to let the backstrap go I would cut out from the face cut
The few Red Oaks Ive done I have found fairly fiberous so if it is not stone dry dead you could try a "Coos Bay" i.e. you form a triangle behind the face cut by cutting left and right of the rear of the hinge forming the triangle and as you then finish the back cut you are cutting a fairly large hinge that allows you time to see what is going on and get out of the way. Whatever you do make sure you have cleared and walked your escape route. I find replying to questions like this hard since a pic no matter how good is hard to read and of course we have a different vocabulary from Europe and America ! No matter what you do safety first !!
 

mdavlee

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If the 28" won't go through all the way then I'd probably use the 36" on it. I don't think you'll have any problems with it like that.
 

komatsuvarna

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If the 28" won't go through all the way then I'd probably use the 36" on it. I don't think you'll have any problems with it like that.

Thats what Im thinking. If its solid, 36'' full comp fresh square :). Should be pretty simple....and the added reach would be a plus. Just wanted some extra input.
 

komatsuvarna

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If it were me, I'd make a face cut, bore a square notch in the back, then pack it full of that junk y'all be blowing stuff up with, turn the camera on, light the fuse and high tail it . :thumbsup:

Don't forget to post the vid. :rock:

Haha, that would be much funner, and probably easier. Be one loud son of gun though!!!:lol:
 
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