First off i wanna do this build myself. I have done some porting on the intake and exhaust of other saw so i think i get the ideal. I have also done some muffler mods. I would greatly appreciate some advice on what to do on this 395. I will run a 36" or 42" bar and really want it to rip. I dont wanna do a pop up or any crazy machine work so whats my best options? Would it be the same as other? Widened intake and exhaust and set squish? What good squish on a 395?
I wanna build a 395xp what to do?
- Thread starter ELECT6845
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komatsuvarna
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Be careful on widening the ports on a 395. There is not a lot of room to go much wider. If I remember correctly, you cant even get to 65% of the bore before you run out of piston skirt to cover the port. Id say on the squish go no tighter than .020....maybe even a little more. Mines about .025. You'll have to check and see, but without a gasket will probably be close to .030.
Have you used a degree wheel before?
Have you used a degree wheel before?
395 build
I have not used a degree wheel yet. Im not sure what kinda numbers are good. Reading on saws all seem to be different so what numbers are good and what numbers are bad? Everytime i read on saws they all seem to react different to porting, so is it all just a big guess to see what works?
I have not used a degree wheel yet. Im not sure what kinda numbers are good. Reading on saws all seem to be different so what numbers are good and what numbers are bad? Everytime i read on saws they all seem to react different to porting, so is it all just a big guess to see what works?
komatsuvarna
New Member
Well ya kinda. Honestly, I don't know enough about it to tell ya much on numbers. I know the 395s have little blowdown time, around 15 to 17 degrees have been reported. Some raise the exhaust just enough to get about 20 degrees of blowdown.
Id be interested myself to hear what some others do :).
Me too. Not trying to be a pain in the butt with all the questions, just trying to learn. I always appreciate the info and the comments
Thank you
How much on the exhaust? any ideal?
No one sees it that way - won't learn anything if ya don't ask!!
Better watch it with these ported saws - you're gonna be addicted! :yup: :yougo: :banana:
mdavlee
How the heck did this take so long?
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I want to say with the base gasket out it was around 107. I raised it to 103 and it added blowdown and seemed to run better with that. I can't remember the intake numbers off the top of my head.
komatsuvarna
New Member
Keep in mind when you raise the exhaust, you'll lose some compression. Just depends on how much ya raise it as too what you lose. Id probably start with around 160 total degrees on the exhaust if ya don't want a popup. Mine is quite a bit higher than that, but Im by no means saying yours needs to be. Most would probably say my exhaust is too high, but it seems to work out well enough for me......It still pulls a 36'' full comp OK.
komatsuvarna
New Member
395 build update
The 395 that i bought of ebay to build showed up yesterday. I was pumped to open the box and see what kinda shape it was in. I peel open the box and pull out a fairly nice 394xp. I was kinda bummed that it was a 394 and the item desciption was for a 395. I contacted the seller and tried to find out what was going on. The seller didnt respond in a few hours so i said the heck with it and tore into the 394 like a mad man. I compression tested it and saw a very nice 155 so i continued going thru it. Spark was also good so i stripped it down to the cases and gave it a hot water pressure cleaning. Bottom end bearings and crank felt tight so i started the reassembly. Cleaned carb, new fuel line, decarboned the top of piston, and the exhaust port on the cylinder. Got it all back together and it fired right up, idled well, oiled, and reved out. Cut with it this afternoon and it ran really strong so i was think what if the seller wants it back? The seller finally responded and said i could keep it if i was happy but never offered up why it was a 394 and not a 395. Said he must of got the shipping wrong????? I guess after contacting the seller and really not getting anywhere ill keep it. What do you think? Good deal? Bad deal? Or now i know that it runs tear it back apart and get to the mods? Should the mods be the same as you guys suggested?
The 395 that i bought of ebay to build showed up yesterday. I was pumped to open the box and see what kinda shape it was in. I peel open the box and pull out a fairly nice 394xp. I was kinda bummed that it was a 394 and the item desciption was for a 395. I contacted the seller and tried to find out what was going on. The seller didnt respond in a few hours so i said the heck with it and tore into the 394 like a mad man. I compression tested it and saw a very nice 155 so i continued going thru it. Spark was also good so i stripped it down to the cases and gave it a hot water pressure cleaning. Bottom end bearings and crank felt tight so i started the reassembly. Cleaned carb, new fuel line, decarboned the top of piston, and the exhaust port on the cylinder. Got it all back together and it fired right up, idled well, oiled, and reved out. Cut with it this afternoon and it ran really strong so i was think what if the seller wants it back? The seller finally responded and said i could keep it if i was happy but never offered up why it was a 394 and not a 395. Said he must of got the shipping wrong????? I guess after contacting the seller and really not getting anywhere ill keep it. What do you think? Good deal? Bad deal? Or now i know that it runs tear it back apart and get to the mods? Should the mods be the same as you guys suggested?
mdavlee
How the heck did this take so long?
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394s have more blowdown to start with. Get the port timing numbers and then a few people that have done them can help you out. I've never done a 394 myself. I thought it ran better than the 395 stock.
Personally I like the 394 better than the 395. Has a little more grunt to it. They're kick @$$ milling saws.
As far as "actual differences" I don't remember what they are but it's nothing too major. I believe the differences are all in the top end and crank (but I could be wrong, best to let one of the guys who really know answer the question about the differences).
I think you did good. If it were me buying a 395 and it showed up as a 394 I'd most certainly be more excited.
As far as "actual differences" I don't remember what they are but it's nothing too major. I believe the differences are all in the top end and crank (but I could be wrong, best to let one of the guys who really know answer the question about the differences).
I think you did good. If it were me buying a 395 and it showed up as a 394 I'd most certainly be more excited.
394's had a solid block carb connection vs a rubber boot on the 395. The difference is vibration isolation while running, but a lot of the all-time champ saws were set up that way as well. The carbs were bigger stock though so its a good start. Not sure about cylinders and whatnot, that's not my area.
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komatsuvarna
New Member
Eric, Whats your opinion on the numbers for a 395....just a rough idea?:)
Roughly row many RPMs is the 395s your doing turning? I kept raising my numbers in small increments trying to get a few more RPMs out of it, but it never gained much RPMs....and I stopped. Its still happy about 12.5ish, closer to 13k with a smaller bar......unloaded that is.
Roughly row many RPMs is the 395s your doing turning? I kept raising my numbers in small increments trying to get a few more RPMs out of it, but it never gained much RPMs....and I stopped. Its still happy about 12.5ish, closer to 13k with a smaller bar......unloaded that is.
Would be nice to see more 395's in my area. At the time when the the 95 was introduced, the bottom dropped out of the 70cc+ market here. Thats places almost all of my porting knowledge in the 94. Really regretting the sale of my last one.
