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McCullough chain keeps coming off help!!

jimmybigfoot

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Hi, I have a McCullough mac 444 and the auto tensioner has recently gone on it so I swapped it with a manual tensioner from a similar model ( all the casings and fittings are the same). Anyway since then (last week) the chain has come off 3 times even thought it initially runs fine. It tightens up fine but even when it's tight it still comes off.
Could this be the gear on the back of the clutch which the chain runs on?
Can anyone help?
Jim
 

WoodChuck'r

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Man I have no idea.


I did some searching on Google and couldn't find any info - not just about the issue yer having but general info about that saw seems to be rather scarce.....
 

mweba

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Same reason I had not responded. No experience what so ever with that saw. Good luck
 

jacob j.

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I've never even seen a Mac 444?
 

jimmybigfoot

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Thanks for the replies guys I forgot to mention the I live in France so maybe it's a French market model. I think it's 46cc with a 16"bar
 

BloodOnTheIce

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Check the drive links that ride in the bar if the chain comes off they
will develop a bur and won't stay in the bar.

Clean up the bur, and you should be fine.
 

Spike60

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Just taking a guess here-----------Most chain tensioners have 3 components: The screw, the pawl that fits the hole in the bar, and some kind of nut or washer that keeps the entire assembly from moving back and forth in the saw. I'd say take a look and make sure that the tensioner is secure in the saw.
 

jimmybigfoot

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Hey guys the chain is new. Ill take some pics and post tomorrow. Thanks for the posts
 

jrepairsk70e

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is there any play in the sprocket /bearing in the nose of the bar??rivets that secure the sprocket to the bar all there and tight??:dunno:
 

jimmybigfoot

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Hey guys hers some pictures.
 

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TK

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Are you lifting the bar tip upward when you tighten the bar nuts?
 

TK

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What you have there is a Poulan of sorts and the bar tensioners are notoriously weak, along with the plastic support in the side cover. I'd be looking for a deformity or a partially stripped screw/nut. It's only a couple bucks to replace the tensioner, and a couple more to replace the entire side cover. I've got one here in purple that would look great on that saw ;)
 

TK

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Remove the bar and chain and post pics of the sprocket if you can. Chances are the problem is in there and/or the side cover.
 

WoodChuck'r

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Any chance that thing is a Poulan...??

That dawg, muffler, and handle in front of the clutch cover looks awfully "Poulanish".

Could be wrong I guess - just kinda looks like one...




That sprocket looks chewed. Maybe the tensioner screw is stripped too....??
 

Adirondackstihl

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Sprocket needs replacing IMO.
Did you make sure to replace the chain with the proper pitch?
 

TK

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Clutch sprocket, time to go. 530047061 can be had for about $10 if it's the same one. Take a pic of both sides of the clutch cover where the tensioner is if you will. A lot of times what happens with these is the nuts get tightened down prematurely when the bar adjuster isn't in the hole in the bar. This bulges out the section where the tensioner is. That will allow you to put tension on the bar but then as you use it it slips out of place. Technically the bar nut pressure should hold the proper tension, but these setups are terribly efficient and will allow it to slip. The bar adjuster pin is mostly to hold the tension on the bar while you tighten the nuts down - which is similar to the molded flywheel keys, those just hold the correct timing position while you tighten the flywheel nut. The taper fit holds the flywheel in the proper place, not the key.
 

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