Redneck Case Splitting

motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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Soooooo, I was asked to "pop" this 395 lower end and thought I'd throw out some pics. Here's my method, feel free to ad your wisdom gents!

The top end is off, as well as the fuel tank, top handle, and the clutch side is stripped, oil pump removed, the flywheel removes on a huskie with this;

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I use the screw holes from the starter pawls and a simple puller (steering wheel or harmonic balancer)



Next thing is to remove the case screws (DUH) but the tools work better when you DIG the gunk out!

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And then the screws all come out- even the hidden ones! Now we dig throughout the mess I work in and around and try to find the "case Splitter", a tool that has been fabbed and gets modded as needed to suit each job, the idea being not to render it useless for given task, only adding to the usefullness. This time a notch for clearance was added. No fancy machining at my place- drill press, angle grinder and a welder.


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motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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Once the thing is split, the next step is removing the crank. Generally one does not want to pound things apart, this arbor press was spotted in the scrap dude's truck- bought it for twenty bucks. Apparently he found the thing was handy to remove bearings and such from cases making his "dirty" aluminum clean. One bearing being stubborn, he took to pounding at the top of the ram. The bearing gave up the fight and the handle came 'round and made him forget what he was doing for awhile-:retarded: got a good thump in the top of his head! And so it went in the scrap pile...I find it SAVES me headaches:rolleyes2:



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motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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Anyway, once I get the crank out, the bearings and seals get pressed out and then the thing gets to take a bath! Clean it up and scrape the gasket, need parts now!


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motomedik

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Feb 26, 2012
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I try to build tools as needed if possible. Threaded pullers must be bought, but things like that I just copied the stihl tool in that case.

Kind of surprised me, honestly, the thing worked that well being that it attaches on the bar studs only and so only to the one side of the crank. Not huge force required, and a soft hammer evens things out. I've used it on the 395, 272, 262, 460, now and works well.
 
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