The McCulloch Chainsaw Thread

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sawfun

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Now that is a great way to start your yellow fever. A nice running 125c that had more paint missing than yours was my first dip into Mac land. Made a favorable impression with me of course, and my very skeptical buddy. Way to go.
 

heimannm

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Everyone needs a few of the large frame SP saws...

McCulloch SP125C Twins.jpg

DSCN1015.jpg

CP125's will work just as well.

DSC06823.jpg

DSC06597.jpg

Mark
 

2broke2ride

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Just wanted to say a formal thank you to rocketnorton, eccentric, and heimannm. Without you guys generously donating parts, this saw would have been shelved or dumpstered.. The carb from eccentric arrived today and after a quick rebuild and fabricating a choke link it fired up and took a tune[emoji106][emoji12]. I put it to some wood and to spite the chain being dull, the thing is an animal. After I get it sharpened I will get a video of it in wood.
From this:

To this:

The 380 is complete and although it's not the 1-52 I was looking for, it's close enough for me.
 
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heimannm

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2 broke - Find a chrome full wrap bar for it and you will be the only one that knows it is the 380 and not the 1-52.

Mark
 

2broke2ride

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Just saw it, I use an app on my phone for the forum and sigs don't show unless I hit show web view........ That's how I tune all my saws lol, I just need to play with it some.
 
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RandyMac

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From Aaron "For old saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes at WOT unloaded and cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should revert to 4-stroking."
or what I do
Tune for peak rpm with bar buried at WOT.
Aaron's way is easier.
 

2broke2ride

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Now I wanna find a bigger bar and chain for it. There is a 32" bar on eBay for reasonable money, just not sure I wanna spend it yet lol. I also have no "need" for a bar that big but it would be cool.[emoji12]
 

heimannm

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I think the 80 and 87 cc direct drive saws with the exception of the Super 250 are best served with an 18 to 21" bar. It has been a long time since I ran one in really good condition so a longer bar might be O.K., I just like to keep them where I can really push them through the wood.

Mark
 

2broke2ride

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Well, maybe I should just leave well enough alone, it just seems like a lot of saw for such a short bar. What makes a super 250 different? It's probably been answered a hundred times.
 

2broke2ride

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Is there an available bar for these old saws that has more of a "normal" profile? This bar came off of my D30 and it has a very "wide" profile, just wondering what I should be looking for.
 

8433jeff

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Well, maybe I should just leave well enough alone, it just seems like a lot of saw for such a short bar. What makes a super 250 different? It's probably been answered a hundred times.

Is there an available bar for these old saws that has more of a "normal" profile? This bar came off of my D30 and it has a very "wide" profile, just wondering what I should be looking for.
They were. They all were. That's why the XL-12 and the 1-10 were the hits they were.

If it cuts straight, a full chisel chain will help, if you really want to go fast, go .404. A roller nose.
Or a bigger rim. Or a more modern saw.
 
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