The McCulloch Chainsaw Thread

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2broke2ride

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Problem with going to full chisel is this bar is .058, can't find .404, .058 anywhere.
Would love a 28" roller nose if I could find one for reasonable money.
 
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2broke2ride

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Also, not really trying to "go fast" I have newer saws for that. Just wanting a "cool" old, big cc saw like my grandpa used.
 

heimannm

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Since the bars of the day were all hardnose, the wider bar and larger radius on the nose helped reduce friction.

You can make any 10 Series bar fit with 15 minutes and a good file, but I think you will be disappointed with the look of the saw wearing a narrow bar.

There are often bars for sale on e-Bay that show what appear to be a couple of small springs in the bar slot, those are actually spacers to make a bar with a 3/8" slot fit the saws with 5/16" bar studs. Most will be narrower profile bars, but you will likely need to find a spline clutch drum so you can use a rim sprocket since most of those bars will be 3/8" sprocket nose.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-20-McCu...766208?hash=item25bbdf5740:g:W-kAAOSwQTVV94Vp

Mark
 

2broke2ride

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Mark, the saw already has a spline drum with a rim sprocket. I was wondering if there where sprockets available to convert to 3/8" as that would make my life much easier, all my other saws wear 3/8" chain. Will a 10 series sprocket for my current drum? Or a whole 10 series drum fit the shoes maybe?

What needs to be modded on a 10 series bar? Just open up the slot for the studs?
 
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Eccentric

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If you're running a D276/MXT/etc 10-series Mac bar, a D096/D196/UXL/etc Homelite XL-series bar, D007 Pioneer/Pioneer-Partner/Poulan Pro P-series bar (that's a lotta P's), or a Mac 'slim line' bar on a large frame Mac then you may have to run the 'slim line' bar plate spacers to keep the chain rivets from getting pinched by (and therefore eating up) the bar plates. Those spacer plate sets are available cheap (NOS) from customchainsawparts on eBay.

Also, you'll want to run the late style large frame Mac inner bar plate (looks like an enlarged 10-series bar plate, with two large symmetrical oiler/tensioner slots). This will ensure that the bar oil will reach the channels in the bar adjuster holes (that's how 10-series and 'slim line' bars oil). The early style large frame inner bar plate has the large lower cutout for the tensioner stud, and the small/thin oiler slot up top.

Also, you need to be sure that the bar you're running has oiler channels from the adjuster holes to the chain groove. 10-series and 'slim line' bars will all have those channels. Windsor UXL bars (Homelite XL-mount) will have those channels too. Some Oregon D096/D196 bars have them as well (as do all D007 mount bars I've seen). Some don't however. Those channels can be cut with a few minutes work with a dremel tool if needed...
 

2broke2ride

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How about the sprocket deal? Any info there? I suppose I can take apart my 10-10 and get to measuring but I'd rather not do that if I can avoid it.
 

fechtichmac

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promac 610

got another one oiling ...
several times I found out , automatic oiler doesnt work, when the adjusting screw is turned too far out !
dont know why - but when screw is turned in ,one or two turns - these oilers suddenly working great !

E. IMG_0705.jpgIMG_0706.jpg
 

heimannm

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Good tip Eberhard, I suspect the piston may simply be stuck in the impulse operated automatic oil pump and moving the screw frees it up.

2broke, all of the large frame McCulloch drums would use the standard large spline rim sprockets. Anyone that sells rim sprockets should have them, Baileys for example.

They are frequently listed on e-Bay as well.

Standard small spline are 3/4" I.D, standard large spline are 7/8" I.D., you need the large spline for the large frame saws. The 10 Series and 600 Series drums were available with either the large or small spline so you have to identify which you have to insure you use the correct sprocket.

I had to modify a bar recently to cut the oiler slot into the chain adjuster hole, using a thin blade in the cut off tool was pretty quick and easy. I think I have the photos in the other computer, I will put some up if I can remember in the evenings when I'm home.

In the past I was able to drill a few small diameter (1/16") holes from the bottom of the groove into the adjuster slot to modify an Oregon bar, but the last one I work on (not Oregon) was too hard to drill in the vicinity of the rails.

Mark
 
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heimannm

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Photos of small spline and large spline sprockets. Both are 3/8 - 7 tooth

DSC05009.jpg

DSC05010.jpg

Never pay more than $10 for a standard rim sprocket, or if you feel obligated to spend more than $10 then be sure to buy them from me...

Larger, specialty "pin drive" sprockets will cost more, in most cases a lot more.

DSC02989.jpg

Mark
 

fechtichmac

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pm610 oiler

I noticed often :confused::confused: - when the oilpump piston has the full way , he will stuck in its end position somehow
do I reduce the stroke , he s getting back ,and the oiler works !!??

E.
Good tip Eberhard, I suspect the piston may simply be stuck in the impulse operated automatic oil pump and moving the screw frees it up.

2broke, all of the large frame McCulloch drums would use the standard large spline rim sprockets. Anyone that sells rim sprockets should have them, Baileys for example.

They are frequently listed on e-Bay as well.

Standard small spline are 3/4" I.D, standard large spline are 7/8" I.D., you need the large spline for the large frame saws. The 10 Series and 600 Series drums were available with either the large or small spline so you have to identify which you have to insure you use the correct sprocket.

I had to modify a bar recently to cut the oiler slot into the chain adjuster hole, using a thin blade in the cut off tool was pretty quick and easy. I think I have the photos in the other computer, I will put some up if I can remember in the evenings when I'm home.

In the past I was able to drill a few small diameter (1/16") holes from the bottom of the groove into the adjuster slot to modify an Oregon bar, but the last one I work on (not Oregon) was too hard to drill in the vicinity of the rails.

Mark
 

Hoggwood

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I have found the need to turn the screw in on those pumps a couple turns as well. Same symptoms with the pump hung up and needing a little nudge to get working again.
 

2broke2ride

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Thank you Mark, you learn something new everyday. I'm relatively new to all of this and had no idea that sprockets where so universal[emoji106]
 

heimannm

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A lot of people don't understand that, that's why some e-Bay sellers can get $15 or more for a standard sprocket.

I think Homelite did in fact make some odd sizes, others may as well but in general anything you are likely to come across will be either the large or small standard spline.

Stihl does supply some saws with a Mini spline, smaller than the standard small spline and those sprockets do cost more of course since they will generally be branded Stihl. The I.D. is alternately identified as 17 mm or 11/16".

HLS lists those for $4.99, Baileys for $12.99, Baileys are described as OEM.

Mark
 

2broke2ride

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I'm pretty excited about all of this, I've found tons of 10 series sprocket nose bar and chain combos for short money, there is a 28" right now on eBay for like $58, I think customchainsawparts has it listed [emoji2]
 

Jimmy in NC

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If you're running a D276/MXT/etc 10-series Mac bar, a D096/D196/UXL/etc Homelite XL-series bar, D007 Pioneer/Pioneer-Partner/Poulan Pro P-series bar (that's a lotta P's), or a Mac 'slim line' bar on a large frame Mac then you may have to run the 'slim line' bar plate spacers to keep the chain rivets from getting pinched by (and therefore eating up) the bar plates. Those spacer plate sets are available cheap (NOS) from customchainsawparts on eBay.

Also, you'll want to run the late style large frame Mac inner bar plate (looks like an enlarged 10-series bar plate, with two large symmetrical oiler/tensioner slots). This will ensure that the bar oil will reach the channels in the bar adjuster holes (that's how 10-series and 'slim line' bars oil). The early style large frame inner bar plate has the large lower cutout for the tensioner stud, and the small/thin oiler slot up top.

Also, you need to be sure that the bar you're running has oiler channels from the adjuster holes to the chain groove. 10-series and 'slim line' bars will all have those channels. Windsor UXL bars (Homelite XL-mount) will have those channels too. Some Oregon D096/D196 bars have them as well (as do all D007 mount bars I've seen). Some don't however. Those channels can be cut with a few minutes work with a dremel tool if needed...
I need to dog into my 125 and see how it is...betting it isnt correct.
 
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