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VP "CHP"

Adirondackstihl

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http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-fuels.html I have a buddy who was a VP dealer but now sells Sunoco Race Fuel. He has a few cans of CHP (Crate Horsepower) oxygenated fuel.....108oct. I can get a can (5gal) at an extremely good price. Is this something I should stay away from? The only Sunoco fuel he has right now is Sunoco Standard(110oct) and Sunoco Supreme(112oct). Or should I just pay retail for a can of SEF?
 

TK

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Do any of them have ethanol and/or a lower octane?
 

Adirondackstihl

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Do any of them have ethanol and/or a lower octane?
No ethanol. Lowest octane he has available right now is 108. Only reason I want it is for long term storage with no ethanol. I realize I wont see any performance gains.....perhaps may even see a decrease in output but I'm not overly concerned with that. Am I safe to run a 108 oxygenated fuel? Or should I just pass on the deal? He is a Sunoco dealer, so I can order anything Sunoco has to offer, but a premium price I'm sure!
 

TK

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I would say just buy a couple cans of SEF or TruFuel and be done with it. How many saws you got to treat for storage?
 

naked arborist

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Do you know how "oxygenated fuel.....108oct." will fare on the carb and fuel lines? Neither do we. TK's right, air on the side of caution as most will agree. Use it to boost 86oct. and run it now.
 

TK

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I'm no fuel expert (hey, I can say that about a lot of things :) ) but I would think the question is - What is it oxygenated with? I was under the impression that MTBE was an oxygenation tool, as is ethanol. Ethanol is also an alternative fuel I understand, but thought it was an oxygenating aid.....


That said, I'd still just get a couple cans of the regular stuff. It hardly takes anything to store a saw. One quart can treat at least a dozen saws or more. Don't need to fill the tank.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Do you know how "oxygenated fuel.....108oct." will fare on the carb and fuel lines?
I don't. That's why I asked. I have 5 saws to put up for the winter months. I've made my decision to run "canned" fuel in muh sawz from here on out. For as little use they see, its in my best interest to do so. My local Husqvarna dealer has (4) 5gal cans of SEF 50:1. I want to run 32 or 40:1, so I'll be adding some Motul 800 2T. If I add 3oz to 5gal of 50:1, it should make 40:1. If I add 7oz to 5gal of 50:1 it should make 32:1. Is muh math correct? TK, you might have to use a calculator cuz I know you only have 10 fingers and we don't need you taken yer shoes or yer pants off in here.
 

TK

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Do you know how "oxygenated fuel.....108oct." will fare on the carb and fuel lines?
I don't. That's why I asked. I have 5 saws to put up for the winter months. I've made my decision to run "canned" fuel in muh sawz from here on out. For as little use they see, its in my best interest to do so. My local Husqvarna dealer has (4) 5gal cans of SEF 50:1. I want to run 32 or 40:1, so I'll be adding some Motul 800 2T. If I add 3oz to 5gal of 50:1, it should make 40:1. If I add 7oz to 5gal of 50:1 it should make 32:1. Is muh math correct? TK, you might have to use a calculator cuz I know you only have 10 fingers and we don't need you taken yer shoes or yer pants off in here.

Counting digits is tough when ya only got 11, but you can measure distance a lot easier with a yard stick than a ruler :bananajacks:

Ok according to muh calacalator I get this fer yer oil adding needs:

To convert 5 gals of straight fuel to 32:1 you need to add: 20oz. oil
To convert 5 gals of 50:1 to 32:1 you need to add: 7.2oz, because 50:1 already contains 12.8oz of oil in it.
To convert 5 gals of 50:1 to 40:1 you need to add: 3.2oz because 40:1 requires 16oz total oil in it.
To convert 5 gals of 32:1 to 50:1 you need to be a damn chemist cuz I don't know how ta do it.

A bottle of 50:1 mix for a 2.5gal can contains 6.4oz oil, so one bottle of that should treat 2 5gal pails for ya.

Oh, and if ya just add 7oz to a 50:1 pail, you'll end up with 32.3232323232:1, which is not acceptable when you're dealing with the internets, you'll be torn to shreds with precision that terrible.
 

Adirondackstihl

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To convert 5 gals of 32:1 to 50:1 you need to be a damn chemist cuz I don't know how ta do it.
:whatthehell: I buy qts of Motul 800 2T from my moto x buddy who has a offroad supply store a few miles away. Use me RatioRite cup ta du the meshuring.
 

TK

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:whatthehell: I buy qts of Motul 800 2T from my moto x buddy who has a offroad supply store a few miles away. Use me RatioRite cup ta du the meshuring.

When yer rayshe-oh rite tells you how ta git frum 32:1 to 50:1, you just let me know.
 

TK

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You've gut 5 gallons in a 5 gallon pail..... You gonna calculate how much fuel you dump out at the old ratio, then how much you need to dump back in to get the new ratio? Oy vey mama mia locos con dios mis banos conseco......
 

trx250r180

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trx250r180

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Do you know how "oxygenated fuel.....108oct." will fare on the carb and fuel lines?Counting digits is tough when ya only got 11, but you can measure distance a lot easier with a yard stick than a ruler :bananajacks:Ok according to muh calacalator I get this fer yer oil adding needs:To convert 5 gals of straight fuel to 32:1 you need to add: 20oz. oilTo convert 5 gals of 50:1 to 32:1 you need to add: 7.2oz, because 50:1 already contains 12.8oz of oil in it. To convert 5 gals of 50:1 to 40:1 you need to add: 3.2oz because 40:1 requires 16oz total oil in it.To convert 5 gals of 32:1 to 50:1 you need to be a damn chemist cuz I don't know how ta do it. A bottle of 50:1 mix for a 2.5gal can contains 6.4oz oil, so one bottle of that should treat 2 5gal pails for ya. Oh, and if ya just add 7oz to a 50:1 pail, you'll end up with 32.3232323232:1, which is not acceptable when you're dealing with the internets, you'll be torn to shreds with precision that terrible.
you sound like you know what your talking about
 

Eccentric

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That CHP fuel is oxygenated with MTBE. Sez so in the MSDS for that fuel. Don't use it. MTBE is terrible on rubber parts. Doesn't do the other bad things (draw water, phase separation, etc) that ethanol does though.

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/download/Leaded_Race_Fuel_MTBE_VP_Racing-6-16-09.pdf

Get your buddy to order some C9, C10, or Motorsport 98L. I'd suggest C9, as it'll be the cheapest of the three, still has a higher octane rating than needed, doesn't have any ethanol or MTBE, and doesn't have any lead to breath. I run a similar fuel from a different source.
 
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